Ireland's northwest coast -- a sleeping giant of golf awakens

By David Brice
Special to GolfWeb
 

The selection of Ireland to host the 2006 Ryder Cup was a popular choice. The bonds between Ireland and the USA are as strong as they ever have been and if as they say, there’s a little bit of Ireland in all of us, there’s even more in every golfer. Golf and Ireland go together like a horse and carriage.

Nobody is likely to argue the fact that the southwest of Ireland contains more than its fair share of great golf courses. The combination of excellent golf and superb scenery has for many years, proved too much for the average first time visitor to resist.

But as Ireland’s golf tourism has boomed and the numbers of visiting golfers have increased, so the more seasoned visitor has started looking to other parts of the Emerald Isle for his or her, Irish golf experience. They are looking for the Ireland of yesteryear – a place less crowded, where life moves at a slower pace; somewhere where the scenery is no less dramatic, the people just as friendly and most important, where golf thrives. Can such a Nirvana exist?

Look to the northwest of the country and you will find all you have been looking for, including a treasure trove of some of the best-kept golfing secrets in all of Ireland.

Arriving at Shannon Airport, drive north rather than west and a world of courses, every bit the equal of Waterville, Lahinch, Ballybunion and those other household names awaits. Ballyliffin, Rosses Point, Enniscrone, Westport, Rosapenna, Connemara, Donegal and two dozen others, have been here for ever, patiently waiting for their time to come - now they are waking up, it’s curtain time.

In a world of over-commercialization, these are the courses capable of providing the truly genuine Irish experience we have heard so much about – they are unspoiled, uncrowded and filled with that unique Irish character we are all looking for. They will have more local Irish playing them than they will overseas visitors and this will be a chance for you to meet and get to know the locals, learning the real meaning of Irish hospitality.

With scenery every bit the equal of the southwest, this is a part of Ireland less frequented by visitors and biting at the bit to prove that it doesn’t have to take second place to any other region in the country. The northwest is awakening and as one of the best values for money in the entire country, who can resist?

Start at the very north in County Donegal, with one of the best – Ballyliffin. For your troubles of driving up here, the reward is not one but two “out of this world” courses – the venerable Old Course, ranked among the top 50 in the British Isles and the Glashedy Course. The Glashedy maybe officially named the second Ballyliffin layout, but its every bit as good as its older brother and a finer pair of links courses exists no place else.

View on No. 3 at Rosapenna  
View on No. 3 at Rosapenna    
Working your way south, don’t miss Rosapenna, an 1893 vintage links layout from Old Tom Morris, with subsequent modifications by both Harry Vardon and James Braid. Then, before World War II, Rosapenna fell out of favor with the vacationing British and a marvelous links was for a time, forgotten.

Luckily, fashion comes and goes and today, thanks to a new owner, Rosapenna’s historic Old Tom Morris design has not only been restored to its original glory, but the fabled Irish architect, Tom Ruddy was brought in to build a further 18 holes on a massive expanse of adjoining dune land. The resulting Sandy Hills Links is yet another fitting tribute to Ruddy’s talents as a designer of outstanding courses and Rosapenna is already well on its way to gaining its rightful position as home to two top ranked Irish links layouts.

Yet another outstanding links in the area is located at Murvagh, 6 miles outside of Donegal. Measuring 7,100 yards, Murvagh is one of the longest course in all Ireland, presenting a stern test for the serious golfer that measures up to rivals anywhere else in not only Ireland, but in all of Europe. But be forewarned, this is not a course for the novice, it’s as tough as they come and demands real golfing skills as well as more than a touch of endurance.

View on No. 17 at Rosses Point  
View on No. 17 at Rosses Point    
Rosses Point, also known as County Sligo, is probably the best-known course of the northwest and with good reason - it’s rated among the top ten courses in Ireland (there are many who believe it belongs in the top 5) and occupies a particularly spectacular location. With the dramatic backdrop of Benbulben Mountain and a sweeping expanse of crashing Atlantic Ocean to the fore, this is one of the most idyllic links locations in Irish golf and the quality and challenge of the course lives up to the promise.

Stop by at nearby Carne Golf Links near Belmullet, another wonderful Irish layout and one of the last to be designed by the great Eddie Hackett. Carved through sand dunes towering more than 70 feet into the sky, Carne is nothing less than inspirational and a very special, natural experience from start to finish.

And this is only a small sampling of the wealth of superb golf that exists in Ireland’s northwest. There are far more great courses that await – Enniscrone, Westport, Connemara, Galway and a couple of dozen more, all with names so distinctly Irish and a welcome for visitors that is just the same.

Golfing fame may have been elusive for this corner of Ireland in the past, but that situation is fast changing. With the quality and quantity of layouts in the area, it had to be discovered sooner or later and it's happening now. Experience it while it is still pristine and unspoiled, it provides the Irish golf experience you have been dreaming of. For a few suggestions on how to include the very best of northwest Ireland in your golf trip, click here.

© 2006 David Brice / Golf International Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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