TOUR LIFE TRAVEL

St. Andrews neighbors offer prime time golf, as well

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Oct. 13, 2009
By David Brice, Golf International, Inc.

Scotland is the home of golf, but the old grey town of St. Andrews is the actual birthplace of the game, which saw its first light of day more than 600 years ago. It's a surprisingly small town that not only lives and breathes golf, but also boasts a colorful and often bloody history that amazes every first-time visitor. This is home to St. Andrews University, founded in the 15th century; in medieval times it was Scotland's ecclesiastical capital and since the 18th century has been the headquarters of the Royal & Ancient Golf Club, guardian of the rules of golf. There is far more to this fascinating town of just 16,000 inhabitants than only golf, but golf certainly rules the St. Andrews of today.

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Six hundred years of golf history all started here at St. Andrews Old Course, host to the 2010 British Open.
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Seven-time British Open venue Carnoustie might be the toughest links in Britain.
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Kingsbarns Links is a contemporary masterpiece ranked No. 12 in all of Britain and Ireland.
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Crail's Balcomie Links is one of Old Tom Morris' wonderful designs that remains a stranger to many visitors.
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Lundin Links is another gem that's close to St Andrews and deserving of far more attention.
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Boasting seven municipal courses, led by the fabled Old Course, venue for the 2010 British Open and unquestionably the most revered piece of golf real estate on the planet, golf is literally everywhere, attracting devotes of the game from around the globe. This is golf's Mecca -- its high altar and an almost sacred place where every player is duty bound to make a pilgrimage.

Most are content to come here for a few days in their quest to play The Old Course, never venturing beyond the ancient town gates. For those who linger here a little longer, there is a thousand years of history to be discovered and within a half hour or so of the town center, a wealth of golf treasures that simply shouldn't be missed. It would take a month to play all of the courses neighboring St. Andrews that call out to be played and few can afford that much time, so decisions will have to be made.

The big name courses will be those that first come to mind, but to enjoy the real Scottish golf experience, include at least one or two of the lesser-known, historic links layouts. You will be seeing a side of the game that is perhaps the most genuine of all and one not often experienced by those insistent on merely collecting a list of so-called, Trophy Courses.

Any recommended list can only be influenced by personal preferences and the following list is certainly no exception. After some 25 years of traveling to and from the home of golf, involving over 100 separate visits, I have undoubtedly become more than a little opinionated.

Carnoustie Championship Links must be at the very top of any listing of St. Andrews' most worthy neighbors. A seven-time host to the British Open and the scene of some of the most nail bitingly, thrilling of them all, Carnoustie is as tough as links golf gets, bordering on being a downright dangerous layout. Difficult enough on a rarely seen calm day, when Carnoustie's winds get to blow, they do so with absolutely no sympathy, creating havoc for even the most accomplished players.

Stepping onto the first tee at Carnoustie is like walking into a lions den, with similar chances of survival. But for those who venture onto these links and take on its arsenal of defenses, there will be a sense of accomplishment beyond anything experienced on a golf course before.

Constant changes in hole direction and consequently wind direction as well, add a frustrating complexity, uncommon in a traditional links and all you may have heard of Carnoustie's fearsome bunkers, comes vividly to life. Complicating matters even further are the streams that criss-cross the fairways, coming into play on nine holes and on several occasions, immediately in front of greens. Finish this monster with a respectable score and you will have earned bragging rights for years to come and memories to last a lifetime.

Kingsbarns celebrates its 10th anniversary next year and although still far too new to be considered by the traditionalists as worthy of being added to the prestigious listing of future potential Open venues, has earned serious consideration on pure merit alone. Already used along with St. Andrews Old Course and Carnoustie as one of the trio of Scotland's top links to host the Dunhill Links Championship, Kingsbarns is firmly ensconced as a star, with an even brighter future ahead.

This is an eye-dazzler with a universal appeal to serious golfers with an appreciation for a thinking player's course, where strategy and course management mean more than mere brawn. Sophisticated links golf in stylish surroundings and a course that is all but guaranteed to be a firm favorite of every visitor.

Crail's Balcomie Links has been called the Prince of Scottish Links, not only for the beauty of its design by Old Tom Morris, the 19th century's most lauded golf architect, but also for the immaculate greens, considered to be among the best in Scotland.

Standing on the first tee, towering more than 150 feet above sea level, the entire course is laid out at your feet and you see what a real beauty it is, made all the more so by the hilly ground it covers -- an unusual feature for the typically flat topography of most links. The view is fantastic; building a sense of anticipation few other layouts will match. It clearly shows that the North Sea will be a factor to be reckoned with practically every step of the way, as well as a few other oddities that will come into play, such as the beach, meandering streams, a stone wall, and a wind that will be working with you one minute and against you the next.

Contemplate the challenge ahead, then be relieved that this first tee shot, no matter how badly struck, will be helped along an extra hundred feet or so down this steep hill toward the green, compliments of gravity. Enjoy the moment while it lasts, it's the only gift this testy layout gives, you are on your way to discover good looks can be deceiving, as can modest yardage and this handsome shorty has strong teeth that bite, but fortunately it's all accompanied by a distinct sense of humor -- an exhilarating, fun round is virtually guaranteed.

Lundin Links dates from 1868 and even after some early 20th century restyling by the great James Braid, still presents about as traditional a Scottish links challenge as can be found, complete with an old railway track running through the middle. Good enough to be a regular Open qualifying course whenever St. Andrews hosts, Lundin Links is a charmer that will tease, tantalize and test any serious golfer.

There are spectacular views across the Firth of Forth to compensate any that may not do so well on this under-rated gem of an old-timer, but for real commiseration, save an hour or two to relax over a glass or more in one of Scotland's friendliest clubhouses. The locals will even offer a few pointers on where you may have gone wrong and even offer to accompany you on your next round.

Venturing outside of St. Andrews to experience even a sampling of the neighborhood courses, might just deliver some of the most memorable times of your entire trip.

For more details of how best to enjoy St. Andrews and its neighboring courses, click here.

©2009 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Golf International -- Providers of quality golf travel arrangements since 1988.

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