The Glen at North Berwick: The essence of Scottish golf

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In the world of golf travel, Scotland enjoys an enviable position as the home of the game. Six hundred years of golf history, together with the most impressive collection of courses that have become household names, is more than enough temptation to draw more overseas golfers each year than any other country on the globe.

The Glen's signature 13th the Sea Hole with shades of Pebble Beach.

The omni-present Bass Rock and The Glen's blustery winds are distractions you can count on.

Play The Glen and experience the essence of Scottish golf.

Overlooking charming North Berwick and the distant Fife coast The Glen sits in the middle of God's country.

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But Scotland's golfing wealth goes far deeper than only its so-called, Trophy Courses. The total inventory of quality layouts contained within these tartan borders is more than 560 courses long, yet less than 20 of these have hosted The British Open in that tournament's almost 150-year existence.

The most genuine Scottish golf experiences are unlikely to be found on the fairways of Royal Troon or Turnberry, nor do they lurk in the clubhouses of Carnoustie, Muirfield or St. Andrews. Excellent as these clubs and their courses are, they are inclined to attract more visitors from overseas, than they do local Scots. Anyone looking for the real Scottish golf experience is more likely to find it at a lesser-known club that is not on the must play list of every visitor.

By all means play a few of those big name courses, but also include one or two of the other real gems, often found in the same neighborhood. Remember, wherever you find one good golf course in Scotland, chances are there will be others nearby. And don't mistake any lack of fame for a shortfall in quality - seldom in the home of golf, do the two go hand in hand. Some wonderful surprises are out there for those who look for them.

There are innumerable examples of excellent layouts, little known other than to locals, sitting next door to some of the most fabled courses in the entire country and the county of East Lothian has an abundance of them. It may be Muirfield, Gullane and North Berwick's West Course that first bring visitors to this tiny county, located just outside of Edinburgh, but once the excellence of the regions other dozen and a half courses are discovered, those same visitors keep coming back for more.

The West Links at North Berwick is the main golfing attraction in these parts. Founded in 1832, it's one of Scotland's oldest links courses and draws more students of golf architecture from around the world than any other. Two of its holes (numbers 14 and 15) are considered the most copied holes in the entire world of golf.

Often overlooked by visitors is the nearby East Links, better known as The Glen, home to the Glen Golf Club and as welcoming an institution as you will ever come across. Barely a century old, The Glen may lack the seniority of its more famous neighbor, but any comparative youth is more than made up for by buckets full of charm, personality and the genuine Scottish golf experience it bestows on each and every visitor.

No less important is the honest to goodness, old fashioned test the course hands out from start to finish. The never ending succession of remarkable views it provides along the way are just icing on the cake and a bonus. But there's more, this is a layout with a sense of humor that never takes itself too seriously -- The Glen has not forgotten that golf is only a game and games are to be enjoyed. This is a course that manages to deliver fun every step of the way and anyone who fails to enjoy their round here, doesn't really enjoy golf at all.

The original course was laid out at the turn of the century, then tastefully re-vamped by the great MacKenzie Ross, demonstrating his usual consideration for all who might tackle it. Deceivingly short at first glance, be wary, The Glen has surprises in store and this engaging mix of inland turf and traditional links is not above a little trickery.

The opening and closing holes must both negotiate the escarpment, first taking the player up to and then down from, the elevated stage along which much of the course takes its path. Once at the higher level the views of Bass Rock, the Firth of Forth and back to the small town of North Berwick are quite remarkable.

The par-4 5th hole may be the most deceptive on the course, with a steep, concealed drop in front of the green, out of bounds immediately behind and threatening rough to the right. Par here will be an accomplishment. Looking back from the 8th tee, the crumbling outline of historic Tantallon Castle, dating from the 14th century, is hauntingly visible, but for true drama, few holes in Scotland can match the 13th, the Sea Hole. An attention grabbing par-3 which, aided by the incessant though ever changing wind, might call for a pitching wedge one day and a 3 iron the next. The green lies almost surrounded by the sea, among rocks and sand -- shades of the 7th at Pebble Beach.

The best and most thrilling however is held until last and the grand finale of the 18th. Teeing off from a seriously elevated tee, there's a drop of over 100 feet to negotiate as everyone has the glory of finishing this amazing little gem with as much drama and flourish, as they care to muster.

For sheer character and personality, few courses can match The Glen. It may not be a super-star, but it has a gutsiness and sense of pure fun, seldom found even on the most famous layouts Above all it is truly Scottish and at no time is this more evident than during an hour or two spent after your round in the clubhouse, one of Scotland's most welcoming. Here the locals outnumber visitors and visitors are treated as old friends -- and isn't that what golf is all about?

East Lothian remains very much unknown to American visitors, yet it contains a wealth of excellent golf ranging from centuries old classics to stunning new tracks, destined for future stardom. Discover this delightful corner of Scotland and a very special golf experience is assured. For suggestions on how to include more of East Lothian's gems in your golf trip, click here.

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