Penina: Still tough as nails; one of The Algarve's best

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The close ties that exist between Portugal and Great Britain, reach back to the 13th century and an alliance of friendship and trading that was established between the two countries in 1294. Ratified by the Treaty of Windsor in 1386, this is the world's oldest existing international alliance and explains in part, how Portugal has become such an important force in the British game of golf.

Penina marked the beginnings of golf on The Algarve.

The Championship Course is among The Algarve's best and every golfer's aspiration.

Penina's abundant water hazards appear on half the holes.

Mature trees add to the complexity of Penina's Championship Course.

Generous bunkering is seldom penal, but still best avoided.

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With a somewhat less than desirable climate of their own, the British have long sought out holiday destinations that offer an escape from the cool, damp weather of home. Encouraged by 20th century advances in transportation and the existing close ties with Portugal and its idyllic, year round climate, this became one of the first international holiday favorites picked out by the Brits, who couldn't resist the temptation to take their homegrown game of golf along.

British wine merchants involved in the Port wine business in the north of the country opened Portugal's first course near Oporto in 1890, then came courses near Lisbon and Estoril. It wasn't until the 1960's that golf discovered The Algarve region in the southernmost part of the country, and again, the British were responsible.

Most of the credit belongs to three-time British Open champion, Sir Henry Cotton, an Englishman and a leading figure in taking golf through its transition from the traditional game of its origins, to the modern day era. From being the leading player of his day, Cotton had turned his talent to course design and was encouraged to visit the Algarve in the early sixties, to provide an opinion as to its suitability for golf development.

Thoroughly enchanted by his discovery, Cotton grasped the opportunity to design The Algarve's very first course on a flat, treeless piece of desolate real estate located at the western side of The Algarve, near the fishing village of Portimao. Thrilled with the opportunity to re-establish the British connection with Portugal, Cotton put heart and soul into the effort, resulting in what is accepted as a masterpiece and his very best design ever.

Any golfer playing Penina's Championship Course can only be impressed. Forty three years after its inauguration, the original layout sparkles every bit as much as it did back in 1966, but with a maturity and seasoned experience that lets you know, this is a wily, modern day, "Old Timer" that knows every trick in the book -- and then some -- this is a layout that has earned its stripes.

Today, it's hard to imagine how the lifeless site Cotton had to work with, must have looked. He planted almost 400,000 trees, which now fully matured, bring a sense of grandeur to the course. The overly generous use of bunkering, though seldom penal, adds a sense of adventure and a distinctly British flavor, sometimes reminiscent of Scotland's Carnoustie. Streams, lakes and ponds bring water into play on almost half the holes, not only adding an aesthetic quality, but also placing a further accent on the need for accuracy and course management. Penina is no holiday layout, but a course to be taken very seriously, its length from the back tees of more than 7,000 yards, emphasizing the point.

If there is one criticism to be made of Penina, it is a lack of forgiveness for the higher handicapper. Just like its perfectionist designer, the course makes high demands of every player, expecting all to rise to the occasion and offering no easier alternatives for those of lesser skills. Nowhere is this more apparent than on the back nine where no less than two pairs of par-5 holes are presented, separated by an outstanding but knee knocking, 200-yard par-3. The tempting direct route requires a tee to green carry over water, all the way.

But Penina is a complete golf resort and not without some sympathy for less accomplished players. Accompanying the Championship Course are two further 9-hole layouts, also designed by Cotton. Both are less strategically demanding than the main attraction, but still great fun to play.

Penina's Academy Course is an integral part of the resort's well respected Golf Academy, one of the best in Portugal and the perfect place for beginners to get their feet wet and gain an excellent introduction to the game. The Resort Course is a somewhat tougher layout, but a complete charmer, with a decidedly testy side, but pure fun from beginning to end. Use the Resort Course as a warm-up for the main attraction, The Championship Course, it's a chance to brush-up on your short game, or just enjoy a relaxing, fun round with the family.

Focal point of the entire 360-acre complex is the elegant, Meridien Penina Golf and Resort Hotel, a luxurious, but totally unpretentious, 5 star property, specifically run with the golfer in mind. Penina has a wonderful, "clubby" atmosphere and an informality that immediately makes you feel at home. Making a good thing even better is the excellent staff, who delight in pampering guests in that engagingly friendly, Portuguese way -- always there and ready to help, but never over-bearing. This is the kind of place where you will be more than comfortable, unpacking your bags for a weeklong stay.

But even golfers need a change of pace and with an equestrian center, 6 tennis courts, a gigantic swimming pool and the beach all close at hand; there is no time for boredom. And for those who can never get enough golf there are another half dozen, top quality layouts close by; Boavista, Alto Golf, Palmares, Parque da Floresta, Carvoeiro and Morgado do Reguengo are all excellent courses, easily accessible and within a 15 to 20 minute drive of Penina. Remember, wherever you are on The Algarve, excellent golf is never far way.

For more suggestions on how to include the best courses of The Algarve on your Portuguese trip, click here.

©2009 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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