Ardglass and Castlerock: Northern Ireland's unheralded gems

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If Northern Ireland is in your future golf travel plans, as it should be, it's a sure bet that Royal County Down and Royal Portrush are the main attraction. Not only are these the top ranked courses in all of Ireland, they also sit high atop the elite listing of the world's very best links courses anywhere. The opportunity to play a pair of the most highly regarded layouts on the planet is one that should be grasped by every golfer. But Northern Ireland golf is very special and its golfing attractions extend far beyond the two Royals, prestigious as they are.

Ardglass - a gem of a seaside track, sits close to Royal County Down.

Ardglass's opening hole immediately gets down to business.

Ardglass - 9th hole.

Ardglass - The 12th hole is just a tad disconcerting.

Castlerock maybe an unfamiliar name, but it's an outstanding links challenge.

Castlerock's magnificent sand dunes add a sense of grandeur.

Ribbon-like fairways reward accuracy at Castlerock.

Stay away from the rough, avoid the bunkers and river and Castlerock may smile upon your scorecard.

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To visit this charming corner of Ireland and ignore some of the other gems that sit here, surrounded by far less celebrity, would be unforgivable. They may not have the name recognition (living in the shadows of a celebrity is never easy, even for a golf course) but don't let that dissuade you, this after all is Northern Ireland where everything is special and anything connected with golf, exceptionally so.

Northern Ireland is filled with surprises and there's no bigger surprise for any visiting golfer than the number of world-class courses that were they not located so close to the star attractions, would have earned a trophy status of their own. In many ways these are the real gems of the country's endless golfing banquet -- those unheralded layouts, often preferred by the locals, where the real Northern Irish golf experience and a genuine, uncommonly warm welcome awaits all.

Very few golf clubs can boast a 700-year old clubhouse and Ardglass Golf Club, located a short 10 miles, as the bird flies, across Dundrum Bay from Royal County Down, is one of the few. The 14th century Castle is largely a ruin, but the club has renovated a corner of it, creating a cozy clubhouse and a unique backdrop for its dazzling cliff-top layout -- one of Northern Ireland's most delightful hidden gems.

Ardglass sets off with a no nonsense approach, immediately demanding a dangerous drive across some 40 feet of ominous black rocky inlet, bordered by the Irish Sea and the accompanying brisk winds this coast is known for, to an elevated fairway. This is no place for first tee nerves, audaciously the gauntlet has been thrown down and now it's up to you to accept and carry through. If nothing else, this is a hole that grabs your attention, driving any dreams of a pleasant stroll in the park, far from your mind -- you're off on a rollicking romp, where all you can expect is the unexpected.

The second is no simpler, a 173 yard par-3 playing from a cliff-top tee, over another cavernous inlet of the crashing sea -- and all into the prevailing wind. So it goes for the six opening holes, which may classify as the most exhilarating in Ireland. Generously, Ardglass allows a few brief breathers, but they crop up infrequently and only it seems as a set-up, immediately followed by even testier challenges. Be especially wary of the 9th through 11th holes and pay no less attention to the 17th and 18th, a closing pair of short holes that are as crafty as they are charming.

By the time you reach the 19th, a little battleworn and weary, it's impossible to have anything but the greatest respect for Ardglass. It's a gutsy layout, filled with subtleties that almost demand a second round, just to see how much better you might be able to do. The dramatic good-looks and sweeping seascapes come along as a bonus for playing a standout course that you'll be talking about for years to come.

Just as Royal County Down has Ardglass as a not to be missed neighbor, so Royal Portrush has several nearby layouts that ought to be an automatic accompaniment to the main dish. Portstewart is certainly more than worthy of attention and a classy links that is often included with Portrush, but there are more to consider and one that calls out to be played is Castlerock.

Castlerock's Mussenden Course was originally laid out by Scotsman, Ben Sayers and opened for play in 1901. Noted designer, Harry S. Colt (Royal Portrush's creator) made refinements in 1925, resulting in the impressive links layout played today -- and the word, "impressive", barely does justice to this stunningly handsome course. The enviable location on the Derry coastline offers marvelous views of Donegal to the northwest and to the east, vistas of the Causeway Coast and on a clear day, across the Atlantic, all the way to Scotland -- but there's far more to Castlerock than only a pretty face.

The course's true qualities are revealed as the round commences and the fairways begin to snake their way between and around giant sand dunes, one minute providing breathtaking panoramas of the coastline, then quickly regaining attention with a few blind-shots, deep rough, grassy hillocks and the inevitable wind gusting in from the sea. The narrow fairways are ribbon-like, the well maintained small greens are true, but never to be taken for granted.

But this is a stern links with a kinder side -- the hazards are for the most part clearly visible and the bunkers, appreciably less severe than on many other layouts, bringing a consoling sense of forgiveness for those less accustomed to the often devious nature of links golf.

Unusual for a links, the course is bounded on one side by the River Bann, which comes into play on five holes. This unique twist brings another dimension, adding even more character, variety and no doubt, a tad more frustration to an already personality packed track. Despite Castlerock's forgiving ways, it's still a course to be respected. The better players will not be disappointed, yet it's also more within reach of the mid to high handicappers than some of its better known, but decidedly more ruthless neighbors.

Good looks, a testing but very fair layout, filled with variety and a generous helping of forgiveness, makes this a wonderful course for everyone and it's all topped off with a particularly friendly clubhouse. No doubt the local members will be all too willing to share a glass or two, explaining where you can improve your score on the next round.

Castlerock's Mussenden Course is indisputably, a true gem among golf courses, whether judged against others in the Emerald Isle, or throughout all of Europe. Miss this beauty and you'll be kicking yourself for many years to come.

Golf in Northern Ireland is very special, not just among a couple of names that have gained global fame, but among this tiny country's entire golf inventory. The Northern Irish have somehow managed to take golf to an entirely new level, a level every golfer will discover is irresistible. For more ideas and suggestions on how to get the very most out of your trip to Northern Ireland, click here.

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