Most visitors arriving at Faro International Airport in southern Portugal, pick up their car rentals and immediately head west along this picture-postcard coastline. They are bound for the beaches and golf courses of the central and western Algarve, the most popular areas for sun-seekers and golf aficionados alike.









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The Atlantic beaches of golden sand are pristine, the rocky coves and small bays are a delight to the eye and the golf courses are the names that have garnered fame and reputations that have skyrocketed them to the upper reaches of European course rankings. These are the layouts that have earned The Algarve its envied position as not only one of Europe's most attractive golf Meccas, but also one of its most important.
Forgotten for so long was the eastern side of The Algarve, a brief 30 miles of coastline running from the regional capital of Faro to the border with Spain. This is the leeward part of Portugal's southern coast, protected by the barrier islands and lagoons of the Ria Formosa National Park, where wild life thrives; the stunning landscapes are as they have always been and Mother Nature reigns supreme. Golf has now arrived on these eastern shores, revealing yet another aspect of the multi-faceted Algarve.
This could be an alarming statement in many countries where development often comes before everything and little if any regard is paid to either aesthetics or more importantly, the environment. Thankfully, The Algarve is quite different. Here the public and private sectors have worked hand in hand for over 40 years, carefully developing a golfing infrastructure that has become a model for others to follow. Sensitively integrated into the region's natural beauty and always with a refreshingly high respect for the environment and its protection, Algarve golf has always partnered with nature, very comfortably.
Golf has been introduced to the Eastern Algarve in the same thoughtful manner, with neither fanfare nor threats of taking over the unspoiled landscape. Since the year 2000, just half a dozen courses have opened along this coast and there will likely be only a few more. Mother Nature is still in charge and as always, is treated with the respect she so richly deserves.
Decisions on which of the six layouts to play will not be easy -- each has its own special charms and appeal, but here is a sampling of three personal favorites.
Benamor Golf Club, located just 5 minutes from the elegant historic town of Tavira, was the pioneer of golf in these parts, opening its doors in 2000. The intriguing design is the very last created by a wonderful friend of golf on the Algarve, the late English architect and best golfer of his day, Sir Henry Cotton. Unfortunately Cotton died before the course was completed and he never got to see the charming piece of golf artistry he had created. His original inspiration had come to him back in 1986 from the delightful little church that has stood next to what is now the 18th green, for more than a century. It's perhaps a fitting tribute to this golfing great that the church, now an integral part of the course, has since been refurbished and re-opened for its original purpose - as a house of worship.
Some courses are built to test, often unreasonably so, others to prove their status in golf's social structure, while still others are built to provide the sheer enjoyment this game called golf can bring. Benamor fits into the latter category, while still providing a fascinating round with a variety of challenges that are always fair and a range of tee positions that allow the player to adjust to their own skill level. It's a course to be savored and enjoyed at an easy pace, allowing time to take in the magnificent vistas of mountains, ocean and pure, natural beauty that surrounds - its tranquility totally in keeping with the character that is the Eastern Algarve.
Benamor starts out in a gentlemanly fashion, always polite and never overly aggressive, so take full advantage and play for birdies on these first few holes, avoiding the forests of mature olive, carob and almond trees that line the fairways. The friendly nature is continued throughout the first half with relatively short par-4's. On the back nine, water comes into play on the 10th, a par 3 demanding a carry across the small lake. On the 13th a stream crosses the fairway and on the 17th a menacing pond jealously guards the green. Perhaps the only time this delightful layout shows any hint of being just a tad mean is on the closing hole, a long, 563 yard par-5, but with that little white church standing dutifully behind the green, you will feel a compulsion to forgive -- after all this is a layout that reminded you just why you love golf.
Leaving enchanting Tavira, it's little more than a 15-mile drive along the coast to reach another ancient small town, Castro Marim and the 5 star, Castro Marim Golf and Country Club, a complete resort that includes 27-holes of spectacular golf. Spend a few days here in one of the plush villas, each with its own private swimming pool, and you'll never want to leave. Horse back riding, deep sea fishing, tennis, yacht excursions from the club's private marina, one of Europe's most enticing golden sand beaches and an endless variety of water sports -- choices will have to be made. And let's not forget the golf, with two different layouts, The Atlantic and The Grouse Courses, both at your disposal.
Played from the tips, The Atlantic Course provides a stern enough test for even scratch golfers, but with a selection of tees, played from the forward positions, this handsome layout comes within the grasp of mere mortals and a thoroughly enjoyable round will be had by all. Seldom do claims of such wide appeal hold true for any course, but the design is exceptional and The Atlantic delivers on its promise.
This is a course for the thinking golfer - brains and not brawn will see you through to a respectable score, but it demands your full attention every step of the way. The Atlantic has a sizeable defense arsenal, which is used effectively and seldom predictably. If you think this is going to be just another resort course, think again. There's a crusty side to this layout and although it's never devious, it delights in providing more than a few surprises.
Water hazards are plentiful and the bunkering is always strategically placed, often working in combination with the water and producing some demanding situations. But perhaps it's the amazing contouring of the fairways and constant elevation changes that offer the greatest ongoing challenge. One minute a downhill gallop from an elevated tee to the green below, the next an uphill climb to a plateau green -- it's a roller coaster ride that creates thrills aplenty. Unquestionably, Castro Marim is one more feather in Portugal's golfing cap and helps establish the Eastern Algarve as a serious addition to the ever-growing reputation of golf on this sun-blessed southern coast.
The Castro Marim Golf & Country Club is more than enough temptation to lure any golfer to The Algarve's eastern corner, but it's only the beginning of the story. Just a few miles away is another stunning championship layout at Quinta do Vale, which opened to accolades from even Europe's harshest golf critics, early this year. Literally within months of opening, Quinta do Vale has gained a celebrity status, primarily because it is an exceptional layout, but with a little assist from the man responsible for the design -- Seve Ballesteros.
Seve has long been established as arguably the best European golfer of the 20th century. Less well known on this side of the Atlantic is Seve's longtime and very successful involvement in course design, which started back in 1986. But it should come as no surprise that great golfers can produce great courses. The person often shows in the design, as do their favorite aspects of the game. Quinta do Vale is a reflection of Seve Ballesteros, his personality, artistry and the game he played so well.
Just like the player, the layout is exciting, creative, at times opinionated, occasionally argumentative, but certainly never boring. It stimulates thinking, rewarding imagination and the unconventional approach. In short, Quinta do Vale is a thriller from the first tee to the 18th hole and a course that simply cannot be missed by any serious golf aficionado.
There's no doubt the design is impressive with 6 par-5's, 6 par-4's and 6 par-3's. The wide fairways contain plenty of doglegs and water is in bountiful supply, coming into play on half of the holes. Always a top bunker player when he was on tour, Ballesteros has been more than generous in providing an ample supply of them here. Problem is they are deeper than is usual and used very effectively to guard the already well contoured and often multi-tiered greens.
Seems that just as in Seve's previous life, and his innate ability to extricate himself from the most serious of problems, success on Quinta do Vale depends on the visitor possessing similar talents. If you also share Seve's unusually good short game and some of his talents with the putter, you might end up with a decent score. The good thing is, with the exhilaration of playing such an outstanding course; you might not even care about your score.
There may not be a flood of golf courses on the Eastern Algarve, but those that now call this hauntingly beautiful coastline home, are quite exceptional. Every bit as good as their much lauded compatriots to the west, they demand at least equal attention -- and they deserve it.
For ideas and suggestions on how to include the best of The Alarve's golfing banquet on your trip, click here.
©2008 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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