TOUR LIFE TRAVEL

Lisbon: An intriguing city with plenty of top quality golf

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Jun. 25, 2008
By David Brice, Golf International, Inc.

There are not many cities in the world that have the ability to capture the hearts of practically every first time visitor. Among the few that exist, Portugal's enchanting capital of Lisbon could be the most enticing of all. Filled with charm, personality and a distinctive character entirely of her own, this historic city unabashedly, seduces everyone. Yet for all of Lisbon's allure, it has somehow managed to escape the attention of many Americans as they take their trans-Atlantic vacations. Sadly that is only our loss and nobody loses more than golfers.

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Lisbon's Alfama district dates from medieval times
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Troia Golf - just one champion among Lisbon's 23 top-ranked courses
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Lisbon's 5 star, Pestana Palace Hotel was built in the 19th century to accommodate a Duke
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Lisbon is surrounded by unspoiled beaches
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Lisbon can be easily explored by public trams
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Sintra's Pena Palace is one of many attractions in this fairytale town, minutes from Lisbon
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Queluz_Palace_fountains
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Obidos - A chance to discover Portugal's history after golf
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Lisbon is unique in many ways, not the least of which is the number of top ranked golf courses it boasts - and they are all located within a brief, 30 minute drive of the city center. No other European capital can offer such an impressive array - more than 20 quality courses, some listed among Europe's top layouts and most importantly, they all welcome visitors with wide-open arms. Portuguese hospitality is famous - always gracious, always genuine and particularly strong among Lisbonites, it's something very special and it thrives everywhere.

You won't find this uncommon level of golfer friendliness in any other European capital, where most surrounding courses are private and visitors are simply not accepted. The few that may claim to take visitors can unfortunately be snobbish and welcoming is not the first word that springs to mind regarding the reception bestowed upon any non-member passing through their doors. Golf in Portugal is delightfully different.

Most international golf trips involve driving around the countryside in a race from one must-play golf course to another, checking into and out of innumerable hotels, never sleeping in the same bed for more than a night or two. We come to accept this as the price that must be paid as we chase after those prize layouts, demanding to be played. In Lisbon, things are quite different. Dreams of a one-stop golf trip where the best courses are conveniently located close-by and all the attractions of staying in a major city are right there, may seem impossible to find, but not in Lisbon, the city where golf dreams really do come true.

It opens up a host of new possibilities, including bringing non-golfers along. Suddenly a golf trip need not be the usual, guilt- ridden escape from spouses and children. Make Lisbon a family vacation and there will be plenty to keep everyone more than happy, golfers as well as those less enamored by the game.

Making a good thing even better, Portugal offers one of the last remaining, true values to be found on the entire Continent. It's a place where a dollar simply goes further, much further, than in any other European country, with no need to make cost-saving compromises on anything. From hotels to restaurants, entertainment, transportation, shopping and even green fees, all of the expenses that make the difference between an ordinary vacation and one that is extraordinary, simply don't add up as quickly here as they do in other European countries. Lisbon's crowning glory however maybe her almost perfect, year round climate - from the very first days of March until the middle of November, this is a city where the sun seems to always shine and clear blue skies are normal. Daytime temperatures seldom drop below the high 60's and rarely manage to climb much above 80 degrees, even during the height of summer. Golf, the beaches and other outdoor pursuits just never stop.

Lisbon and the surrounding area, known as the Lisbon Coast, is a land of plenty -- a never-ending banquet of places to stay, courses to play, discoveries to be made and new experiences to be enjoyed. But just like a banquet menu, where everything is so tempting, it will be impossible to sample it all, so a few choices will have to be made and the first decision will be where to stay.

Personal preferences may lean toward a city hotel, very convenient for exploring Lisbon with a short, 30-minute journey to most of the courses on golf days. An alternative with no less appeal is to stay in a nearby beach resort, such as Estoril or Cascais, or one of the plush golf resorts that surround the city. Golf courses will be within a few minutes drive and the beach-lovers and water sports enthusiasts will have the golden sand beaches of the Atlantic at the doorstep. Restaurants and bars are plentiful and the lively nightlife includes Europe's largest casino. Lisbon's city pleasures will only be a half hour distant, but still conveniently close for sightseeing, museums, shopping or perhaps dinner and a fado show.

Stay in the heart of the city and all of the fascination and intrigue of Lisbon's centuries of history and culture, dating back to the beginnings of time, will literally be at your hotel's front door. One of Europe's smallest, yet most atmospheric capitals, Lisbon is very manageable and invites exploration on foot and the old trams that trundle up and down the seven hills on which it is built. The seeming jumble of different districts may initially appear confusing, but it quickly comes together as each reveals its own particular charm and personality.

But Lisbon's allures extend far beyond the city walls, encompassing the entire Lisbon Coast and an excursion or two outside of the city will be more than rewarding. At the top of the list should be Sintra, a lush mountainside paradise located only a half hour from the city. Once the summer retreat of Portuguese royalty, the presence of the royal family only attracted other members of the aristocracy, many of whom built elaborate mansions and palaces, which remain as living examples of the good life they enjoyed. Two of the most notable to be included on any Sintra visit are Palacio da Pena and the 14th century, Palacio Nacional.

Another worthwhile excursion that is even closer is the small community of Queluz and the Palacio Queluz, originally built as a Royal hunting lodge. In 1747 Prince Dom Pedro transformed it into a palace to accommodate his new wife who was to become Queen Maria I. She spent the final 27 years of her life in this palace, eventually driven mad out of grief, following the death of her son. Considered Portugal's finest example of rococo architecture and surrounded by magnificent 18th century, formal gardens, non-golfers can spend a few hours soaking up the Queluz history and see if Queen Maria still walks the corridors, while golfers tackle the rather testing layout at Belas Golf Club, located just a couple of miles down the road.

Venture a little further and Praia d'El Rey, one of Portugal's top ranked layouts is located, barely an hour's drive from Lisbon. Make this a full day excursion and there will be enough time for golfers and non-golfers alike to experience the nearby medieval walled town of Obidos, one of the best preserved in the country. Picture postcard perfect, Obidos is the way we imagine the Portugal of old to have been - complete with its own 14th century castle, narrow winding cobblestone streets, ancient churches, small squares and plazas, white-washed house with colorful flowers draped from wrought iron terraces. Every corner turned reveals a new glimpse of a thousand years of history and to really savor the atmosphere, take a leisurely lunch or a glass of local wine at one of the many outdoor restaurants, just watching the world go by.

The Lisbon Coast offers a very special escape for everyone, whether it's the appeal of some of Europe's most stunning beaches, the excitement of the city of Lisbon, the simple pleasures of ancient towns and villages, or the beauty of the countryside -- and excellent golf is everywhere. For a sampling of some of the best courses on The Lisbon Coast, see the accompanying article and for a few more ideas an how to enjoy this enchanting area to the fullest, click here.

©2008 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Golf International -- Providers of quality golf travel arrangements since 1988.

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