Dumfries & Galloway - Scotland's best kept secret
By David Brice, Golf International, Inc.
Scotland, with 600 years of golf history and an inventory of more than 550 courses, is the undisputed home of golf. No other country can claim such a close affiliation with the game since its very beginnings. Yet for all the wealth of golf contained within Scotland's borders, or perhaps because of it, there are still many layouts, even entire regions of the country boasting excellent courses that remain virtually unknown to all but the locals.
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Nowhere is this more apparent than in the southwesterly reaches of the country, around the colorful region of Dumfries and Galloway. This is a land with a rich history where names such as John Paul Jones, Mary Queen of Scots, Robert the Bruce and Scotland's poet laureate, Robert Burns, have played an important role. It's a countryside of dramatic landscapes, centuries old castles, character-filled market towns and picturesque villages.
The strong influence of the Gulf Stream results in a surprisingly temperate climate year round, which in turn has produced some of Scotland's most impressive formal gardens. The pleasant climate also means golf is a year round affair and being Scotland, it should be no surprise to learn there are over 30 fine golf courses taking full advantage of the situation.
There's a very good selection of courses located around the town of Dumfries at the eastern end of the region where the shining star is unquestionably Southerness Golf Club, often referred to as, "Scottish golf's forgotten gem". Ranked among Scotland's top 20 courses, Southerness is about as good as links golf gets, making it hard to imagine how a layout of such outstanding quality, has been able to fly under the radar of visitors for so long. But that's the story with many of the attractions to be found in Dumfries and Galloway -- it's a region still waiting to be discovered.
Only 15 miles away from Southerness is another sparkler of a layout at the Dumfries and County Golf Club. Considered one of the best parkland courses in Scotland, this is the handiwork of 1883 British Open Champion, Willie Fernie. Known for the quality of its greens it's a testy layout where good course management will be essential to a good score. For the average player, this will be a difficult challenge and for the low handicapper, a teaser that will keep you on your toes from start to finish. Acknowledgement of the quality of Dumfries & County came recently when it was selected to host the British Senior Ladies Open.
Nearby is Powfoot Golf Club, a 1903 vintage links from the drawing board of the great James Braid, the noted master of bunkering. Powfoot demonstrates Braid's abilities with its abundance of shrewdly placed sand traps, guaranteed to perplex and frustrate even the most accomplished players. Wayward ball strikers will also be encouraged to improve their accuracy by the forests of gorse lining the fairways -- pretty to view from afar, but nothing you want to see up close. Adding to the traditional links feel of Powfoot are a couple of blind holes that manage to bring that touch of traditional Scottish authenticity to this thoroughly enjoyable links.
The scenic drive west from Dumfries to Portpatrick, one of the most idyllic seaside villages in all of Scotland, takes a little over 90 minutes, although it's best to allow twice as long to absorb the spectacular scenery along the way. Arriving in the tiny, picture-postcard village offers an appropriate finale to a half-day of breathtaking landscapes. Spend at least a couple of nights in Portpatrick, not only for the natural beauty that abounds, but also for another pair of Dumfries & Galloway's, golf secrets, calling out to be played.
Stranraer Golf Club is a brief, 12 miles from Portpatrick and James Braid's final design of an illustrious career -- it's fitting that his last, opened in 1951, was one of his best. Located along the shores of Loch Ryan and filled with breathtaking views, there are tests aplenty for those who choose not to take the layout seriously. Adding to Braid's signature bunkering and the coastal winds that change velocity and direction at will, is a meandering burn that seems to have but one purpose -- to humble those who cannot be humbled.
Dominating the village of Portpatrick from a nearby cliff-top is Portpatrick Dunskey Course, a jewel of a layout, not to be missed. With stunning views across the Irish Sea to The Isle of Man in the south, the Northern Ireland coast to the west and Scotland's Mull of Kintyre to the north, it's hard to imagine any course having a more dramatic setting. But good looks are only the beginning of all this very special course has to offer.
The exposed cliff-top location brings Mother Nature's elements into play, often with a vengeance and the prevailing southwesterly winds never fail to make their presence known. Allowing for head winds, side-winds, tail winds and more often than not, a combination of them all, club selection is tricky at best. Though not a true links, Portpatrick's Dunskey Course contains many links-like defenses, always with an extra touch of feistiness that dares you to take up the challenge. Accept it and enjoy the thrills that come as part of the golf experience that is Dumfries and Galloway.
As wonderful as the golf is in this most southerly part of Scotland, don't miss the opportunity to discover some the many other Scottish attractions that abound in the area.
Dumfries is the regions largest town and its attractive capital, appropriately nicknamed, The Queen of the South. Straddling the banks of the Nith River, Dumfries is also the heart of Robert Burns Country and filled with references to Scotland's Poet Laureate, including the house where he spent his final years. The Globe Inn was a favorite Burns haunt and contains an impressive collection of Burns memorabilia.
Less than 10 miles to the south of town is Caerlaverock Castle, the finest example of a medieval castle in all of Scotland. Originally built in the 13th century it came to prominence during the Wars of Independence when it was besieged by King Edward I of England. In nearby Kirkudbright is the handsome, 16th century Maclellan's Castle and on the outskirts of this picturesque town, the ruins of Dundrennan Abbey, where Mary Queen of Scots spent her final night in Scotland before fleeing to England in 1568.
Book lovers should include the small village of Wigtown in their itinerary. This is Scotland's official Book Capital, with a population of barely 1,000 and some 30 secondhand bookstores, many specialized in rare first editions and other out of print volumes. If whisky holds more appeal than books, Wigtown is also home to Bladnoch Whisky Distillery, producing a range of rather special single malts, so stop by for a tour and a tasting. If you like it, buy a bottle or two or for the real enthusiast, you buy a cask of the stuff for around $2,000, unfortunately tips and taxes are quite a bit more. To keep you amused, the nearby village of Gatehouse of Fleet will probably also be of interest. Here in the welcoming 18th century Anworth Hotel you will find Scotland's largest whisky bar, with over 400 different whiskies available by the glass.
Dumfries and Galloway is a unique corner of Scotland with something for everyone, not the least of which is a fine selection of impressive courses. Take full advantage of the fact that it remains undiscovered for the moment and enjoy the tranquility while it lasts. For more ideas on how to include this very special part of Scotland in your golf trip, click here.
©2008 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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