Packed with thrills, they don't make 'em like Dunbar Links anymore

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Although there is no clear record of when golf was first played at Dunbar, town records show that in the year 1616, two men from the nearby parish of Tyninghame, were censured by the church for playing nine holes of golf on Dunbar Links on the Lord's Day. Golf has been played here for a very long time, a period during which the church has fortunately become far more tolerant of golfers.

Dunbar Links fronts the infamous North Sea and cantankerous winds

Located a short 30-miles east of the heart of Scotland's capital city, the attractive coastal town of Dunbar sits in the golf-rich county of East Lothian, a place where much of the game's history has been written over the centuries. This is hallowed golf country, to be revered in the same light as St. Andrews. East Lothian may not receive rightful credit for its many contributions to the game, but it is no less deserving and the courses contained within the county borders, include some of Scotland's most historic and very best.

Muirfield, home to The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, has hosted The British Open 15 times since 1892 and appears at the top (or very close to) of any ranking list of British courses. The Honourable Company authored the original 13 rules of golf in 1744, the same year this, one of the world's oldest clubs was formed. Nearby is Musselburgh Links, the oldest playing course in the world and the venue for six British Open Championships between 1874 and 1889.

Pretty to look at, Dunbar presents an uncommonly tough links challenge

North Berwick's 175 year old, West Course, has garnered its own fame as an outstanding example of nature and designer working in unison to produce a links masterpiece and no course attracts golf architects in such numbers to marvel at the wonder. They come from all over, everyone intent on taking inspiration from one hole in particular, the 15th, The Redan. The result - innumerable copies of North Berwick's prized hole, appearing on more courses around the world, than any other -- impersonation really is the sincerest form of flattery.

Dunbar Golf Club is no less deserving of a position atop East Lothian's main golf attractions. This is one of the most handsome links courses along Scotland's east coast, laid out along a frighteningly narrow tract of land, skirting the rocky shoreline. Totally exposed to the whims and moods of the erratic winds that can literally blast in from the North Sea, Dunbar insists on proving itself one of Scotland's most difficult links.

A healthy smattering of gorse only adds to the challenge

Bounded by an old stonewall that runs the full length of the course, there is an out of bounds on the 3rd thru 9th holes and again on the closing three holes. Complicating a less than straightforward situation is the rocky beach that comes into play on the 4th thru 7th holes and again on the 12th thru 17th. It's not so much that straight hitters are rewarded, as it is the sheer misery confronting any who may be less than absolutely accurate.

Be wary as you step onto the first tee, this is a wily old-timer that delights in setting up the unsuspecting visitor with her seemingly kindly disposition. The modest length of only a shade over 6,400 yards from the tips, belies the challenge this old lady has in store. She provides further comfort on the first three holes; more parkland than links, they offer generously wide fairways that appear to be as flat as a pancake, enticing the big hitters to spread the shoulders and let things rip. Enjoy it while you may, by the fourth hole Lady Dunbar's patience is exhausted, she tires of her own niceties and abruptly gets down to business. The gloves come off as she proudly shows that she really is no lady -- she's been around the block more than a few times and has a mind entirely of her own.

Save some time for a dram or two at the very welcoming, Dunbar clubhouse

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It's these testing seaside holes, extending from the 4th to the 17th, where Dunbar's true colors come shining through, 14 holes of serious links examination where even the most experienced will learn how devilishly tricky a real links course can be.

The 7th is a good example -- a par 4 of well under 400 yards with a dogleg right and the famous wall running the entire length to the green, tucked hard against it and in the omnipresent wind, a potential disaster, waiting to happen. The lengthy 9th runs over 500 yards, again with out of bounds a never-ending threat on the right.

The 12th is a difficult par 4, usually playing into the wind and requiring two perfect shots to reach the green and the 16th, a remarkable par-3 that depending on the wind can call for anything from a 9 iron to a 3 wood to cover its brief, 166 yards.

Tempered by the picture-postcard views throughout the course, Dunbar remains a stiff challenge for all and one of those unique layouts that practically demands being played a second time, if not more. Without a doubt it provides an unusually exhilarating links experience, guaranteed to linger in your memory for many years to come.

For more ideas and suggestions on how best to include Dunbar and other unsung heroes of East Lothian on your Scottish golf trip, click here.

©2008 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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