Lisbon, city of history, culture, gastronomy and world-class golf
By David Brice, Golf International, Inc.
The city of Lisbon is undoubtedly one of Europe's most under-rated capitals. Often referred to as the Paris of southern Europe, but with an ideal year round climate and without Paris' prices, alluring Lisbon finds its way into the hearts of every visitor. It's virtually impossible to get to know this intriguing, personality packed city without falling head over heels in love with her - and nobody ever leaves without vowing to return again, soon.
For those with any appreciation for the game of golf, Portugal's capital is even more enticing and thoroughly unique. Literally surrounded by a cornucopia of superb courses, many ranked among Europe's best and most located within a brief half hour of the city center, Lisbon is also Europe's most golfer friendly city. Without exception, each and every club welcomes visitors with open arms.
Along this Lisbon Coast you will find no snobbish veil of exclusivity, nor pretentious attitudes or members only signs, only a genuinely warm, Lisbon welcome and the instant camaraderie, perhaps known only to golfers. From clubs boasting the very best courses in the country that regularly host major European Tour events, to more humble layouts, where the less accomplished players will have a very enjoyable round, the welcome mat is out for all. No other European capital has quite the same attitude toward its golfing visitors.
The unique combination of more than two-dozen excellent courses, all easily accessible from the very heart of such a fascinating capital, is more than enough to make Lisbon a temptation for most -- add to this the fact that Lisbon offers Europe's best value for money and the temptation becomes irresistible. Compare prices of hotels, restaurants, green fees, even car rentals in Lisbon with Paris, London, Dublin or any other European capital and you'll be pleasantly surprised to see Lisbon is often 30% less expensive and sometimes the savings are even greater. The rest of Europe may be getting more expensive, but Lisbon remains an affordable destination and for all it has to offer, a rare bargain.
Stretching across seven small hills, close to the mouth of the mighty River Tagus, Lisbon enjoys a spectacularly beautiful site, looking across the sheltered harbor that has been the center of much of the city's more than 3,000 year history. From the Phoenicians to the Greeks, Carthaginians and the Romans, to the Moors and eventually the Christians, no European country can lay claim to such a vibrantly colorful past. But it was the Age of Discovery, during the 15th and 16th centuries that brought Portugal and Lisbon, true maritime power and glory.
It was during this period when Magellan, Vasco da Gama and other Portuguese explorers set off on seafaring adventures that would discover Brazil, Africa and new trade routes to India and The Orient. The Portuguese Empire was born and Lisbon thrived as Europe's most prosperous city.
But Portugal's history has never been simple and after over a century of peace and prosperity, things changed. From 1580 until 1640, Portugal endured 60 years of Spanish rule, followed by a further 28 years of warring with its archrival, until Spain eventually accepted Portuguese independence in 1668. Then followed the great earthquake of 1755 that destroyed much of the capital. Since that time Lisbon and Portugal have persevered through good times and bad. They have withstood civil war, revolutions and the fall of the Portuguese monarchy. They have suffered through 40 years of dictatorship and not until 1986 and Portugal's acceptance into the European Union, has true democracy emerged. If character is formed out of struggle and hardship, the Portugal of today is proof positive and Lisbon, the window through which Portugal's character is so proudly displayed.
With a population of less than 600,000, this is a small, compact city, approachable to the extent of being seductive and yet literally brimming over with everything that makes a European capital exciting. Try to forget the wealth of excellent golf waiting along the Lisbon Coast for a day or two and take some time to discover charming Lisbon and her demands for equal attention.
The city is conveniently divided into districts or neighborhoods; each with its own special appeal and a fun way to explore is by public transportation and the old yellow trolley cars that trundle backwards and forwards across town. You wouldn't miss a trolley car ride in San Francisco and neither should you in Lisbon.
Start off in the district known as Baixa (the lower town) and Praco do Commercio, or Commerce square, a huge, 9 acre design, acknowledged as being one of Europe's most perfectly laid out squares. Surrounded by impressive government buildings, this is the center of Lisbon's activity and leading north, the streets are filled with restaurants and boutiques and as you are in Portugal, there are values to be found in those store windows.
Wander further north, through Dom Pedro IV Square and past the National Theater to Restauradores Square, commemorating the 1640 uprising and the end of Spanish occupation, to magnificent Avenida da Liberade. This broad, tree lined boulevard is where many of the city's finest hotels, restaurants and shops are to be found. At the far end, glorious views of the city await and Edward VII Park, with it's impressive formal gardens. From Avenida da Liberade, take the funicular to Bairro Alto (the upper town) for even more spectacular cityscapes.
To the east of Baixa is the medieval city and the Alfama district, the oldest part of Lisbon Narrow winding streets paved in cobblestone and flanked by picturesque old houses with wrought iron balconies, always filled with flowers and washing hanging out to dry. This is where many of the city's famous Fado Houses are located and the best place to hear Portugal's often soulful folk music. Take the time to visit Lisbon Cathedral, which has been standing here since the 12th century and at the very peak of the hill, the Castle of Sao Jorge, a converted Moorish Fort that was once the residence of Portugal's Kings and has guarded Lisbon since the 12th century. The panorama from the castle's battlements is stunning and extends across the entire city and River Tagus for as far as the eye can see. Plan your castle visit well and dine at the charming restaurant, Casa de Leao, located within the ancient castle walls. Popular with visitors and locals alike, reservations are a must.
The Belem district, located at the western end of the city and easily accessed by tram or bus, is a sightseer's paradise, containing a concentration of some of Lisbon's most impressive monuments, several dating from the Age of Discovery. The awe inspiring, 16th century, Jeronimos Monastery, dominates the area. Built by King Manuel I to celebrate Vasco da Gama's discovery of the new route to India, this exquisite example of Manueline architecture ranks as one of the most spectacular sights in the entire country.
A short stroll away and not to be missed is the National Coach Museum, a remarkable collection of horse drawn carriages used by Portuguese Royalty and nobility between the 16th and 19th centuries. Next-door is the Palacio de Belem, the 16th century, former Royal palace, now used as the official residence of the President of the Republic of Portugal.
Standing prominently on the waterfront is the impressive, Monument to the Discoveries, a modern day tribute to Henry the Navigator, the brave mariners and others who contributed to Portugal's most famous era. The Torre de Belem is also well worth visiting. Originally built in the middle of the River Tagus in the 1500's as a fortress and a starting point for explorers as they set out to discover new trade routes, changes in the river now position this magnificently carved monument only a short walk across a gangway from the shoreline.
And for those still hungry for more museums, Belem happily obliges -- There is the Museum of Popular Art, The Maritime Museum, The National Archeological Museum and even more. While you are here, visit the 19th century pastry shop, Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, it's your opportunity to sample another of this district's claims to fame, the fabled, pasteis de Belem, a very sweet, rich custard in a flaky pastry cup. Not good for those on a diet, but quite delicious.
But why stop with a pastry? Allow yourself the pleasure of experiencing more of Lisbon's gastronomic pleasures and there are many. This is a city that enjoys its food, as evidenced by the variety and number of restaurants that are everywhere. Specialist seafood restaurants abound and shellfish is especially appreciated by the locals, with a choice of crustaceans extending far beyond lobster, crab, oysters and prawns. Cray fish, spider crabs, cockles and goose barnacles are just the beginning of the amazing selection always readily available, and with the Atlantic at the back door, Lisbon's fish is always as fresh as fresh can be.
Extraordinary dishes of baby roast suckling pig, kid and lamb also feature prominently in Lisbon's cuisine and for cheese lovers, a wide array of local cheeses, most made with ewe's or goats milk. World renowned for its fortified port wines, Portugal is also fast becoming one of Europe's more important table wine producers and some of the best never make it to the export markets. Take advantage of your visit and sample some of the very fine reds from the Dao, Douro, Ribatejo and Alentejo regions or the crispy white wines from the Minho region in the north of the country.
But there is still a lot of very serious golf to be experienced and it's all so close by, together with even more sightseeing opportunities, just outside of the city. The chic beach resorts of Estoril and Cascais have a laid back charm, entirely of their own, combined with a vibrant nightlife that never stops. The historic hillside town of Sintra, once the summer retreat of Portuguese Royalty and other aristocracy is only a half hour's drive from Lisbon's city center. Allow at least a half-day for this very worthwhile excursion to explore the fascinating town (one of Portugal's oldest) and its extraordinary collection of ancient palaces, castles, convents and manor houses.
Lisbon is unique and has so much to offer the visitor, whether golf is on the agenda or not. How such an appealing city has escaped the attention of so many for so long, could well be one of the great mysteries of the world of travel. Get to know Portugal's intriguing capital and you will have made a friend for life. For ideas on how best to combine Lisbon's world-class golf with her many other attractions, click here.
©2008 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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