Lisbon is filled with fascination and plenty of top-drawer golf
By David Brice, Golf International, Inc.
Making the choice of where to take this year's vacation can be a confusing puzzle for us all. If golf is to be either a part of the trip or the major focus, the decision making process can become even trickier, especially if some of the participants may not be golfers. Finding a destination to satisfy everyone can be akin to dreaming the impossible dream. This is a time to turn to the real experts for some very well qualified advice.
Few European nations have a stronger propensity for taking vacations than the British and Irish -- both have an experience only gained from taking frequent holiday breaks and with Europe as their oyster, they are especially familiar with this corner of the globe.
As keepers of the keys to the home of the game and with 600 years of golf history under their belts, nobody can deny, the British know their golf. The Irish, who, long ago, turned golf into a national pastime, aren't too far behind and certainly know a good course when they see one. So in a world where an ever-growing number of countries use golf as the bait to lure more visitors to their shores, it's interesting to see where the European golf experts, the Brits and Irish, choose to take a trip.
The number one destination picked by both, consistently brings Portugal to the forefront. Surprising as this fact may be to the uninitiated, Europe's most ardent and arguably most knowledgeable golfers favor a destination that most on this side of the Atlantic, are quite unfamiliar with.
How Portugal, where the first golf course was built in 1890, has managed to stay beneath the American golf radar for so long is a complete mystery. Even if there were no golf, Portugal would still be an absolute charmer and one of Europe's most appealing countries to visit - add in her astounding collection of high quality golf courses and she becomes nothing less than irresistible.
Nowhere is this more apparent than in and around the capital of Lisbon, one of Europe's oldest and most enchanting cities. Elegant, sophisticated and thoroughly intriguing, Lisbon has something for everyone including a perfect year round climate -- this is a place where golf together with other outdoor activities have no seasons and can be enjoyed 12 months a year. Boasting some two-dozen outstanding golf courses, all within a 30-minute drive of the city center, Lisbon is a golfers delight and for those less enchanted by the Royal and Ancient Game, this thoroughly absorbing city is nothing less.
With a history dating back to the beginnings of time and its occupation by the Phoenicians and the Romans, to the Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries, when Henry the Navigator laid the foundations of what would become the Portuguese Empire. Vasco da Gama and other great Portuguese explorers set sail from Lisbon, into the great unknown to discover North Africa, Brazil and new trade routes to India and beyond. All have left their mark on this handsome city, through its architecture, monuments and rich, multicultural heritage.
This is a city that invites exploration and anyone in search of history, culture, monuments, fine dining, a vibrant nightlife, or excellent shopping, will be more than satisfied, even overwhelmed. Lisbon not only holds its own when compared to any other European capital, it does so easily, simply outshining most others.
But Lisbon's attractions don't end in the city and venturing just a few miles outside to the surrounding Atlantic coastline will be a half hour journey filled with its own rewards, golf included. This is the Lisbon Coast, renowned for its pristine golden sand beaches, historic small towns and chic beach resorts, Europe's largest casino and an impressive selection of some of the best golf courses, not only in Portugal, but in all of Europe.
Unlike private clubs surrounding most other European cities that at best discourage, or more often, blatantly refuse visitors, the golf clubs of The Lisbon Coast, actually want you to play their challenging layouts and be a member for the day. Justly proud of their clubs and courses, you will be showered with the heartfelt Portuguese hospitality, so typical of this very friendly country.
Head east out of Lisbon and the two neighboring resort towns of Estoril and Cascais offer not only a wonderfully relaxed, beach community atmosphere, complete with excellent restaurants, bars, nightclubs and the famous Estoril Casino, but a bevy of Lisbon's best courses. Heading the list is Oitavos Dunes, a masterly creation from Arthur Hills, deemed good enough to be the regular host for The Portuguese Open, one of The European Tour's most important events. Nearby is the very popular, Quinta da Marinha, an imaginative Robert Trent Jones design and only a couple of miles along the coast, the Estoril Golf Club. Opened in 1945, this is a pioneer of golf in the region and an intriguing design by the great Mackenzie Ross.
Travel just a few miles inland to the picturesque, hillside town of Sintra and the plush, Penha Longa Golf Resort, where the championship Monastery Course, provides a stern and lengthy test of golf skills. Don't miss a visit to historic Sintra while you are here. Used as a summer retreat by Portuguese Royalty and nobility since the 15th century, Sintra is filled with ancient Palaces, mansion houses, churches, museums and art galleries and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
From Sintra it's less than a 10 mile drive to reach another intriguing monument, the 18th century, Queluz National Palace, a smaller style Versailles, located in the town of the same name. Conveniently, just a couple of minutes down the road, the well respected, Belas Golf Club, a testy layout better suited to low to mid-handicappers.
The proximity to the opulent Palace at Queluz makes this an ideal excursion to be shared by golfers and non-players alike. Make your Queluz visit on a Wednesday morning between May and October and you will be able to witness The Portuguese Cavalry School, resplendent in 18th century costumes, giving their weekly exhibition of horsemanship on their fabled Lusitanian horses. And this is still only half the picture of all Lisbon has to offer. Drive across the mighty Tagus River heading south of the city and within half an hour there's another collection of world-class courses to be savored.
Troia Golf is a brilliant links layout from Robert Trent Jones Sr. and perhaps his best architectural work on the entire Iberian Peninsula. Remote and wildly beautiful the setting, fronting the Atlantic Ocean, is perfect for a course considered to be one of Portugal's toughest. If you are looking for something a little less stressful, the two 18-hole championship layouts at Aroeira, one from Frank Pennink and the other by Donald Steel, may be more to your liking. Both provide a serious examination of skill from the back tees, yet are far more forgiving from the front, providing an enjoyable round of golf to players of all abilities amid spectacularly beautiful surroundings.
The Montado Golf Club offers another superb championship layout where the more daring, accomplished players will find more than their share of risk/reward holes, while the more conservative usually have a safer route should they prefer. Highly ranked Quinta do Peru is one more on the area's list of impressive layouts. Filled with variety, including some very testing holes, a thoroughly enjoyable round is all but guaranteed.
Although the Ribagolfe resort complex is located a little further inland and a 45-minute drive from Lisbon, the extra driving will be well rewarded, presenting the opportunity to play both of the two 18-hole layouts --Ribagolfe I and Ribagolfe II. Any lack of creativity in naming these two, is certainly more than made up for with the imaginative design of a pair of totally contrasting layouts, both of which present serious golf with a very special, Portuguese flair.
The delightful city of Lisbon is unique and perhaps totally alone in its ability to cater so admirably to golfers, giving Big City Golf an entirely new meaning. Certainly the British and Irish have discovered a gem of a destination, as well suited to golfers as non-golfers, so why not take a leaf from their book and make Lisbon a part of this your vacation plans. For a few more ideas and suggestions on how, click here.
©2008 David Brice / Golf International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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