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By George Fuller
Travel Correspondent

Somewhere high above the Big Island of Hawaii's Kohala Coast, midway up the slopes of commanding Mauna Kea Mountain, the late afternoon wind brushes over the fields of deep brown lava and golden kiawe bushes. A lone pueo owl floats in circles above his territory searching for his evening's meal. Sitting here, one can see the Pacific Ocean softly glimmering in the distance, and the peak of Mount Haleakala poking above the clouds over on Maui. It is quiet, and encouraging to know that there are places like this where we can find deep silence in the world still.

No. 17 at Hualalai is a scenic par 3. (George Fuller)

Down along the coast, though, progress has come in a big way over the past 20 years, bringing with it luxury resorts, real estate developments and golf courses. The once-remote coast now boasts eight hotels, shopping opportunities, world-class dining, beach activities and water sports of all kinds: marlin fishing, diving, kayaking, sailing.

On the golf courses, though, one can often find the same solitude and peace of mind that pervades in the upcountry. Head out late in the day -- after the pool, after the spa, after the water sports -- and you will discover one of Hawaii's true treasures: a warm wind brushing across uncrowded fairways, and the beautiful solitude of putting out by yourself as the sun sinks into the sea.

One of the very best spots to rediscover your serenity is Hualalai Resort, where the Champions Tour kicks off its season with the MasterCard Championship. The tournament is contested over the resort's Jack Nicklaus-designed course, one of the Golden Bear's most enjoyable layouts. Fuzzy Zoeller certainly found it pleasant, winning the 2004 MasterCard event.

Resort guests are treated to the same memorable experience the professionals have when they compete here. In fact, when changing shoes in the clubhouse before a round, one is likely to get a locker with "Arnold Palmer," "Hale Irwin" or "Lee Trevino" on the nameplate.

The course inspires confidence, with holes that require and reward good shots, but don't overly penalize mis-hits. The greens are large and receptive, and overall fairly level. There is plenty of room off the tee, a comforting sight to most resort-level golfers.

No. 17 -- you probably remember this beauty if you've watched the MasterCard tournament on television -- is a striking par 3 that plays over a short lava carry to a big green with Big Blue -- the Pacific Ocean -- just beyond. Wind is the course's trump card: one day No. 17 might call for an 8-iron, the next day a 4-iron may not get you home.

A Tom Weiskopf layout opened at Hualalai in summer 2004, although it is reserved for members, who are also property owners at Hualalai. A separate clubhouse is slated for a 2006 opening.

"We did not want to duplicate what we had with the Nicklaus course," says John Freitas, director of golf at Hualalai. So, typical of a Weiskopf-designed membership layout, the course is far more challenging. Although much of the lava field landscape is the same, there are forced carries off every tee. "It's more intimidating to stand on the tee box," Freitas says. "And there are no adjoining holes as there are on Nicklaus, which means that you must keep the ball in play. There is lava on both sides of the fairways."

The bunkers are deeper and more penal. And there is more movement to the smaller, faster greens; they will roll 10 to 10.5 on the Stimpmeter, as opposed to the 9 to 9.5 on Nicklaus.

A delightful Four Seasons hotel is Hualalai's primary accommodation choice, a destination often voted as the best in the United States by readers and editors of national magazines. There is wisdom to their selection. The Four Seasons provides a luxurious beachfront getaway, exquisite dining -- including the five-diamond Pahuia -- spa facilities, authentic Polynesian cultural experiences, and several very inviting swimming pools.

A new restaurant by Hawaii's renowned Chef Alan Wong recently opened in the Hualalai clubhouse, the latest in a wonderful string of restaurant choices along the Kohala Coast. Others include the only other five-diamond restaurant on the island, The Grill at the Fairmont Orchid Mauna Lani, a culinary treat that should not be missed; Roy's at Kings' Shops at Waikoloa; and the oceanside Canoe House at Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows, where a $10 million renovation of all guest rooms and common areas was completed in December 2004.

The golf courses along this relaxing coast are all alluring: Mauna Kea, Hapuna, Mauna Lani (where the Senior Skins was played for many years), Waikoloa Kings' and Beach and the Nicklaus course at Hualalai. If you've got the time, try them all. If time is short, pick any of the above and you won't be disappointed.

The only thing you'll be disappointed about is if you don't jump on board the next Hawaiian Airlines flight, and experience Hawaii for yourself. Places change, developments spring up before our eyes, homes are built ... progress we call it. But inside every one of us is a deeper longing for the chance to sit quietly and listen to the wind blowing softly across the rocky fields of a beloved place. That is the lasting gift of the Big Island's Kohala Coast: the chance to feel the warmth of Hawaii on our cheeks as we line up that last putt of the day, just as the sun sinks into the embrace of the ocean.